How LA Eats ‘20
Los Angeles is one of the world’s great food cities, thanks to generations of immigrant communities who’ve built restaurants that became neighborhood institutions…and the soul of How LA Eats.
Our sprawling city is a mosaic of cultures, where diversity defines identity, and eating across town is second nature. From SGV to South LA, food connects us across borders and boulevards.
But Covid hit these communities hard, especially small, minority-owned, multi-generational spots that helped shape us. As LA locals, we chose five neighborhoods and partnered with five iconic restaurants in each to spotlight the way LA eats.
Finery is donating custom aprons to help tell their stories. A beautiful apron won’t save a restaurant, but it can shine a light. If it reminds someone to order take-out one more time, that’s something.
We’re also launching two limited-edition Kogi aprons with Roy Choi. 100% of proceeds go to No Us Without You LA, which now feeds over 1,300 vulnerable hospitality workers each week with fresh produce and pantry staples.
SOUTH LA
From their humble beginnings in 1986 selling hot dogs from a cart in the parking lot of the Leimert Park Swapmeet, brothers Duane & Cary Earle know what it means to support their community. Having moved 3 times since then, they’ve always stayed nearby, keeping the community at the core of their business. Over 30 years later, Earle’s is still on Crenshaw, is still splitting and grilling the best dogs in LA, and is still a family business (Joelle, Lauren, Sunny, and Jane are now part of the business).
SAN GABRIEL VALLEY
In 1981, with her then 6 week old daughter Sophia, Wendy Lam immigrated to America from Cambodia via Thailand, Vietnam, and finally a refugee camp in the Philippines. In just 7 years, she opened her first restaurant in 1988. Then in 1996, after selling the original location, she opened the now famous (and Michelin Guide mentioned) Newport Seafood in San Gabriel. For decades, their Southeast Asian food has combined flavors from China, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Thailand into some of the most sought after seafood in Southern California. Today, Sophia is grown with her own family, and together, this mother and daughter team are continuing the tradition for a new generation.
SOUTH BAY
In 1996 Seiji Akutsu moved his family from the Harajuku neighborhood in Tokyo to Gardena in the South Bay. In 1997 he opened up Otafuku, which has become a beloved institution in LA known for its soba and udon noodles that are made fresh every day. His daughter Mieko has become involved in the restaurant and will continue to serve the food they loved eating in Japan.
EAST LOS ANGELES
Raul Ortega moved from San Juan de los Lagos Jaliscos (the famous home of La Virgen de Guadalupe) to LA in 1982. In 1991, he opened Mariscos Jaliscos, becoming one of the first food truck purveyors in LA. Since then, Raul and his now 5 grown children (Laura, Griselda, Rocio, Nayely, & Raul Jr.) have become one of LA’s most beloved food trucks serving up the best in Mexican seafood.
KOREATOWN
Born in Seoul, Korea, Chef Jenee Kim brought a degree in Culinary Science and 2 children with her when she moved to LA in 2000. In 2003, she opened up Park’s BBQ. Her dedication to the highest quality ingredients paired with the best cuts of meat and homegrown recipes, has made Park’s arguably the most well-known and highest regarded restaurant for Korean BBQ in all of Koreatown.
CITYWIDE
Kogi started in 2008 in the streets of LA. Over the years, their 3 trucks- Roja, Verde, & Rosita – have become citywide staples cruising streets and feeding people from LA to OC to the South Bay to the Valley to the IE and beyond. They forever changed the way street food was viewed.